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The following pond care tips are recommended mostly for a “Biologically Filtered System" just like the systems we install with a Biofalls waterfall container and a skimmer box. As always, if there is any way we can be of further service, please don't hesitate to give us a call.
BACK TO BASICS: Maintaining your pond is not rocket science (more like rock science).
- The monthly service includes REMOVING the skimmer filter pad (or brushes) that is/are located beneath/behind the net basket and rinsing it/them with a garden hose (some people forget that there is even a filter pad down there)
- The once a year service includes shutting down the pump, removing the lava rock bags. Remove the filter pads from the Biofall container and rinse them thoroughly, remove the dirty water then proceed to place the filter pads and lava rock bags back into the Biofalls. Plug in the pump.
- Don't forget to add your beneficial bacteria ("Aquaclearer") every week.
Wasn't that easy?
THE ROLE OF GRAVEL IN YOUR POND: The rocky bottom is totally alive and brimming with activity, covered in algae, microscopic invertebrates and bacteria. This section of the pond is basically a compost pile. When organic debris falls to the pond's bottom, it is broken down by the benthic (bottom) inhabitants. These organic recyclers will live off of uneaten fish food, decaying plant matter and nitrogenous fish wastes. If this substrate was not present, the pond would quickly die, effectively being suffocated by toxic fish waste and organic buildup. Fortunately, nature has given us a way to solve this problem. Organisms have evolved to use practically every bit of available food. Fish, crustaceans and aquatic insects will feed on these minute organisms, including bacteria and algae that live on the rocky pond floor.
THE YEARLY POND CYCLE: Most ponds undergo an algae cycle every year. When the climate becomes colder (winter time), both the plants and bacteria will go dormant due to a lack of oxygen in cold water, creating advantageous conditions for algae growth. Without the competition from plants and bacteria, algae will take full advantage of the available nutrients in the pond. Do not be discouraged if your pond develops a lot of string algae during the winter. When the warmer temperatures return and stabilize, and the plants and bacteria establish themselves once again, the ecosystem will become balanced and the algae growth will decrease. Of course some ponds will take longer to achieve this balance. With an OASE filtration system retro-fit you can rest assured that you won't have to deal with this problem ever again! Please see our Features page for more information.
LAST MINUTE WINTER NOTES:
- Plants and Debris: Remove plant debris and other organic matter from the pond, because the debris will become nutrients for algae.
- Fish: When water temperature reaches 50 to 55 degrees, stop feeding your fish. At this temperature, their metabolism slows down and eating can make them sick or even cause death.
- Bacteria: Discontinue bacteria treatments when the water temperature reaches 50 to 55 degrees, the bacteria does not work at these temperatures and using it would be a waste of money.
- Annual Pond Cleanouts: This is the best time of the year to have this service done (which we offer) because everything is in a kind of dormant state and is less likely to go through the green water period.
FISH FEEDING 101: Providing a proper environment and proper nutrition needed to keep your fish alive and healthy, will allow them to live longer and healthier. Since there are so many variables behind your pond fish's growth rate, performance and potential should be predominantly attributed to their environment.
HOW OFTEN SHOULD I FEED MY FISH? Fish can survive in artificial ponds simply by foraging on aquatic plants, algae, and insects in the water. With that said, logic dictates that the more fish you have in your pond can lead to lesser amounts of food per fish. Without a doubt, the majority of pond hobbyists enjoy feeding their fish whether or not it was their original intention. This situation can lead to the common problem overfeeding which has a proportionate relationship with, you guessed it, water quality! More food equals more waste and more waste yields poorer water quality conditions. Of course this just means you would have to clean your filters more often than normal and also add more beneficial bacteria (which helps in the breakdown of excess organic matter in the pond). Just keep in mind, poor water quality conditions can lead to a poor environment, which ultimately can lead to potential health problems! Fall is the time to make sure that you are generously feeding your fish. They need plenty of food now so they can store excess nutrients to help get them through the cold winter months. The usual rule of thumb still applies...only feed them what they can eat in five minutes. Continue to feed your fish as long as they are active and the water temperature is at least 55 degrees F. At temperatures below 55, their metabolism and overall activity slows down while they prepare for hibernation. One little note - when you introduce new fish to your pond, don't expect them to eat right away. It may take a day up to a few days before they get used to their new surroundings and work up an appetite.
SO WHAT SHOULD I FEED MY FISH? You ask. Follow this simple concept: higher quality foods yield more digestible ingredients and, therefore yield less waste on the "other end," Voila! (that's French for: Ta-Daa!). Anyway, higher digestibility means that the fish that consume it use more of the food's ingredients which ultimately means higher nutrition for the fish and better water quality in the pond and hence the world will be a better placed to swim in! Pond fish are omnivorous and eat a wide variety of foods (as you might have experienced). Koi fish food comes in round pellets or sticks that either sink or float (but not both, hee hee). Of course live food is the best because they are natural foods and have a high nutritional content. Many live foods are also available in frozen form. Earthworms can be purchased from bait and tackle shops, Kingworms (more commonly known as Mealworms) can also be purchased at certain reptile pet stores. Both are often relished by Koi and goldfish of all shapes and sizes (yummie!). Other treats for your pond fish may be romaine lettuce, watermelon, oranges, grapefruit and peas. It's best to create variety in fish diets.
NUTRITIONAL REQUIREMENTS: The main objective of feeding fish is sustenance, nutrition (to build muscle and keep the body firm without making the fish fat), and aesthetics (to enhance and maintain the fishes' color). A range of 25 to 50 percent of the fish diet should be protein which is a primary source of energy. Fats and lipids can comprise of 10 to 12 percent of the diet for fish. Fish easily digest unsaturated fats, whereas saturated fats are poorly digested. Less then 20 percent of the fish diet should be carbohydrates which are the fishes' main source of energy (and don't let them forget to exercise regularly). One last note - the first ingredient on the label should not be corn or soybeans but a high quality protein source such as fish meal!
Well, here we are again talking about all that green stuff (algae) in your pond that can literally appear overnight, as some of you have experience. I bet you didn't know that pondering can be so much fun? All kidding aside, listed below are ten algae problem solutions that really work.
- Beneficial bacteria with enzymes play an enormous role in balancing your pond and providing you with a low maintenance water feature. The bacteria should be added regularly (at least twice a month) throughout the year. The bacteria will compete with the algae in the pond for excess nutrients, essentially starving off the algae. Remember to clean you Biofall filters no more than twice a year.
- Plants directly compete with algae for nutrients and sunlight, and are probably the most important addition to your pond. Make sure you add a wide variety of aquatic plants to your pond. This not only creates a natural look, but will also help reduce the algae in your pond.
- Place water hyacinth and water lettuce (these are both floaters) in the pond area and in the Biofalls (use fishing line to prevent the plants from flowing over the falls). These plants reproduct rapidly (in warmer weather) and use up enourmous amounts of nutrients.
- Plenty of marginal plants such as cattails and iris are very good for your pond because they also take up large quantities of nutrients. They are hardy and will be back each year to help you balance your pond.
- Placing water lilies in your pond will aid in the reduction of algae as well. The larger lilie pads will soak up the warm sunlight, therefore allowing less sunlight from reaching the deeper portions of your pond. Removing the lilie from the pot with its soil and placing it between the gravel will allow the water lilie to grow bigger and healthier.
- Koi fish are worth their weight in gold (when it comes to keeping your pond algae-free). I cannot stress enough how beneficial these beautiful creatures can be to your pond. I know a lot of you went out and got these cute, little 2-4 inch Koi fish (and named every one of them) with all kinds of plans for them when they got bigger (years from now). And within a week, you noticed that Sparkly was missing, then Spotty, and then Fred. "Where did they go, Mommy?" You little daughter or son asks you. You will need to invest in larger Koi fish, not only because they are voracious eaters but so you won't have to worry about Charlie just disappearing one day in the "Bermuda Pond." Limit your feeding, think of fish food as fish treats. Try not to feed your fish more than 2-3 times per week because guess what they'll eat if you don't feed them? Bingo - all that green stuff!
- Remove decomposing material such as leaves, pods, nuts and trash from the bottom of your pond. Over time, all this debris becomes food for the algae, yummie!
- Barley straw is another way to keep algae in check. The barley is usually placed in the Biofalls. The barley begins to decompose about 6 weeks later, and this is when an interaction occurs between the barley and the algae. The barley will last around 3-4 months (and then should be replaced).
- Create shade for your pond! Algae thrives with direct sunlight. Plant trees (that will give more afternoon shade) near your pond. Maybe even building a lattice cover or an arbor would help a lot, not to mention making your pond a small haven now where you can have all kinds of viney plants growing on your trellis.
- Physical removal of the clumps of string algae if it begins to overtake the pond is very helpful.
- Run-off control is very important to having a well-balanced ecosystem. Never use lawn fertilizer or insecticides on trees around your pond or an areas of your property that will drain toward your pond. Lawn fertilizer and insecticides will cause large algae blooms, as well as severaly threaten the aquatic life in your pond.
- Avoid spraying for pests and weeds with 20 feet of your pond and don't even think about spraying front or back yards on a windy day! All it takes is just a very small amount of mist from the spraying and your pond will experience the same problems as the run-off above.
- Your "Auto-Fill" Float should be checked monthly because if it is filling your pond all the time, the algae will thrive with all the new nutrients being introduced to your pond, and besides, it's not good for your fish.
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Got those green water blues? We can help!
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